[alfa] how long to install a new soft top - reply

[alfacybersite <acs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Okay, bs has in essence challenged me to justify my hours spent on
installing a top on a Series 1 (not 2, 3, or  4) top. Funny, none of the
tops installed whilst having a beer were Series 1's.

Carrying on where I left off: The three window seals per side are rather
difficult to remove and more difficult to install (not to mention,
expensive). Of course they need to be removed to remove the top. No big
deal but there is a hidden single drilled out 13 mm (wrench size) nut on
each side which holds the cables. While there are merely six 6 mm bolts
and two sheet metal screws which hold the rear edging on, one must crawl
under the rear apron to remove as it comes off with the top. Most often
the captive nuts for the bolts are shot or missing and need to be
replaced. 

Now the top is off: Unless you're replacing it with new, chances are the
stitching has come out of the rear drape and obviously needs to be
restitched. One must be careful to remember how the fabric for the top
and for the drape are attached. Often the material for the drape has
deteriorated and new material stitched in. I have this done when having
the inside header recovered. 

Top mechanism: Later ones are riveted, these are held on by a several
machined screws and round  'notched' type nuts (same type on toggle
switches but much larger). Inevitably these are loose or missing and
must have machined unless you know of a source that I don't ( not the
same size as 101 Spider machined top nuts which I have some extras). Now
the choice, just tighten up knowing they will loosen up again, or
removing each one, thoroughly cleaning, add Loctite, screw in a wee bit,
then add a smear of grease on inside screw head. There are only four of
the screws + the two header screws and two screws which hold the
springs. There are eight of the special nuts + misc several other
'normal' bolts and nuts.

Now, hope the two steel swiveling rods which retain the header  screw 
in the forward cast aluminum window seal retainers are not frozen. They
Must be unfrozen and allowed to move freely as the aluminum end / ends
are  most likely tl break off when installing the new top for the first
time.  

Now the Very Heavy top mechanism can be removed for grinding off rust
and glue, epoxy primering, and painting. I use (real) epoxy primer
(PPG's DP50LF) and satin black Rust-Oleum. The primer dries generally in
30 minutes, but like to give it an hour. I allow the black to dry for 12
hours, then turn over and do the other side.

In the past I generally set it aside at this point, but have decided it
is best to install the top before bodywork, paint, etc. are done.

Off comes the header and it, along with the rear apron are taken to the
upholstery shop, then installed once again. The top mechanism is put
back on the car and adjusted as close as possible - the header should
fit nicely with the top of the windshield. Then install the top along
with the rear apron, bolt down, glue down front, install new cables,
install the (not available at this time) front seal, cut and fit the
three per side window seals, then, using a small brush, apply one coat
of contact cement to the bows and two coats to the fabric flaps.

Very carefully trim and hit the stop clock. Possibly slightly over five
hours, possibly over 30 to 40 hours including time at upholstery shop.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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