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Re: [alfa] Stainless fasteners in exhaust systems



Hi Jay:

I recently had to remove the SS nuts and bolts from the downpipes from my '74 Spider, which had been in place for a few years, and maybe 4K miles. I didn't have the same trouble you did, and they still look fine. They're nothing fancy, either, just the crap that Home Depot sold at the time. I'm sure there are lots of different alloys out there, too, so that's got to make a difference. Your mix and match trick might just be the way to go, and I always use the silver Permatex Anti-Seize, which seems to hold up well on exhaust parts.

Regards,

Dean


At 10:33 PM 7/6/2004, you wrote:

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 12:29:04 -0700
From: "Jay Mackro" <[email protected]>
Subject: [alfa] Stainless fasteners in exhaust systems

Dean Cains had suggested:

> If you want a trick to make the exhaust installation a bit easier, buy a
> set of stainless steel nuts, bolts, and washers for the connection between
> the manifolds and the downpipes.  Weld .....

I had tried something a bit simpler, and had some strange results.
My '76 spider has a catalytic converter attached to the exhaust
pipes with two, three-bolt flanges.  I figured "hey, SS is the way
to go", and bought some 5/16" X approx. 2-1/2" stainless bolts,
nuts, and lockwashers.  I needed to remove the cat a couple of
months later, and tried to loosen the six bolts.  Two of them were
locked up - totally frozen.  The bolts fractured before the nuts
would loosen.  No they didn't look corroded, and no, I hadn't
used Loctite or anything else on the threads.

My question for all you metallurgists out there is: Does stainless
steel tend to "gall" or otherwise  lock up, especially when exposed
to heat?  Should I have used oil, anit-seize, or some other lubricant
on the threads (of course, would that have survived the heat of the
exhaust system?).  I replaced the SS nuts with regular steel ones,
but retained the SS bolts.  My hope is that this combination will give
the desired result.

Jay Mackro, San Juan Capistrano, Ca.
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