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[alfa] Brake / clutch bleeding procedure



Man, we're gonna beat this one until it's totally limp.

Regarding holding down the pedal until the bleed screw is closed, as has been mentioned, of course eliminates air being sucked back in through the threads - particularly on the clutch slave cylinder whose bleed screw is shorter than the brake variety and seems to me has coarser threads, though might well be wrong there. Doesn't' matter if your tube is "firmly" in the brake fluid in your pickle jar, or you have a Speed bleeder, still gonna happen - much of the time. If one is merely "freshening" the brake fluid, no major air has been brought into the system. Not so if the entire brake or clutch system has been removed then sometime later replaced. Lotsa air to get rid of.

It certainly helps - not sure if this one has come up this time or not - to wrap teflon tape around the bleed screw threads - being careful not to overlap the ends.

Lalo Ruiz tells us all we're doing it the hard way and mentions an European Power Bleeder. I could see where if one has a steady flow of fluid under pressure, it "might" overcome the tendency of brake fluid to be sucked back up the threads when the pedal is released. On a personal level my concern is I still have the original brake fluid reservoir on my Alfetta GT - two caps with notches in the threads of both for the wires for the low level brake warning light. One has to remove these when filling, now what does one do with the gap?

Additionally what if one misjudges how much fluid will be needed and still have a pint or more in the bleeder's reservoir - major turkey baster time?

Again, I'm sure no one who has written in would have done so if their method didn't work for them, but still feel "especially" after one has just installed a new brake MC, four rebuilt calipers, and fresh flex lines, it's not going to be a 10 minute job - and then there's the 750-101's with six separate brake cylinders to "overcome" and hope none are leaking inside the drums.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA --
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