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[alfa] 1750 oil leak



By overwhelming demand...okay two emails: To replace the rear crank so it is slam dunk okee doky once buttoned back up: Obviously the engine has to come out and you have to split the tranny / bellhousing from the engine. Remove clutch and flywheel. You did remember to drain the oil first didn't you? Put on engine stand and rotate 180 degrees and remove oil pan. Remove rear main bearing cap. Remove rear oil seal and examine. Sure hope the outside is buggered or you're going to be really pissed at me (though you'd have to get in the back of the line).

One moment please: I now suggest you also examine the "seal surface" on the crankshaft and see if there is a groove in it. Thanks to Youse Guys I'm now a convert to Speedisleeves. They are thin stainless sleeves which fit over the "bearing" surface and help eliminate oil leaking through the groove. Isn't it amazing neoprene / rubber can cut steel? About $20. Chicago Rawhide name comes up as suppliers along with a place in the Northwest which I can dig out. I bought mine in the City of Irwindale. Called up a local bearing, seal, etc. place on a Friday and had two in first thing Monday a.m.

So now you've fixed the groove: The installation of the seal is really, really tough. Slid it on the crank. Put a smear of silicone grease on each of the two cigarette seals (Yes, they are available - Centerline, Alfa Parts, ? - don't use that silicone crap) and slid them down about a third of the way and using the back of your ballpean hammer, began tapping the rear main down. Do make sure the crank seal stays in place and the cigarette seals are sliding down as you tap, If not, remove and adjust accordingly. Once all tapped down and all bolted up - and if everything went perfectly - the crank seal is safe and sound and snugly in place and there is just a little itty bitty bit of the cigarette seals sticking up. If more than a little itty bitty bit, you reach into your tool box and pull out your factory cigarette installation tool which (I believe) allows both seals to be pounded down in unison. What! You don't have the factory tool? Me neither. So you pull out your steel tube which measures .50" O.D. and .40" I.D. and is "around" 3" long. Then you take out the "special" bolt whose shaft (actually I'm not exactly sure what this bolt really is, but simply told the non-franchise hardware store I needed a bolt which fits snugly inside) measures .39" / 9.9 mm (no name head fits a 17 mm and 11/ 16" sockets) and is 6.5" long. Pound each cigarette seal down with ballpean hammer almost flush.

Button up and install. Oh yeah, add oil before starting.

Hopefully you Really first determined the rear seal is the culprit, so I don't have to be the one.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA --
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