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[alfa] Best 2L engine to hop up



> Carl Liebold wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking of hopping up a 2 liter engine for my 66 GTV [snip]
------------------------------


> Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2004 17:18:57 -0500
> From: Gilbert Gagne <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [alfa] best 2 liter engine to hop up?
>
> Your 66 GTV has clutch & brake pedals thru the floor and direct linkage
> to the clutch instead of hydraulic master cylinder with slave. As I
> remember,  2L engines won't mate with the 1600 bellhousing and clutch
> mechanism and you will have to also use the 2L bellhousing and clutch.
> This means jury rigging a clutch master cylinder to the thru-floor
> clutch pedal. Maybe my recollection is out of date and this may not be 
> a
> real problem. I once married a 2L engine from a 74 Spider to a 1300 67
> GT Jr. and had to install a clutch MC on a bracket under the floor so 
> it
> is doable. I would be interested to hear about other similar 
> experiences.
> Gil Gagne
> Port Orange, FL
> 1985 Spider
>

>>Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2004 09:09:26 -0500
>>From: "Karl N. Matthias" <[email protected]>
>>Subject: [alfa] Re: alfa-digest V10 #414

>>Just for the record, the 1969 cars have floor mount pedals and a 
>>hydraulic clutch.  You have to drill the longitudinal member to let the 
>>'69 pedal box pass through to the outside where the clutch cylinder is 
>>mounted.  My 1968 Giulia Sprint GTV has the place where the hole would 
>>be already stamped into the longitudinal member, which will make it 
>>easy to drill (I have two sets of 1969 pedals).  Don't know if they're 
>>all embossed like that already, or just mine because it's a late one.  
>>The alternative is to buy the adapters and whatnot from Centerline.  
>>Since I have the pedal boxes already from parts cars, that's the route 
>>I'm going.

>>Karl


I think Carl is more interested in the cylinder head etc of a 2L and its
suitability for a 1966 car. But Gil/Karl bring up something that I want to add
to. 

There are 3 well-recognized ways to up-engine a 1600 car....

1) build a 1750 engine - has the 6-bolt crank and will bolt to the 1600
flywheel/clutch and fit the 1600 bellhousing. Easisest of all.

2) Build a 2000 engine, has the 8-bolt crank - use the 2000 flywheel/clutch,
1600 bellhousing and the Throwout bearing adapter from Centerline. pretty easy
but results (according to Dan Marvin and others) in a very "over-center" clutch
- ie all the action is one end and quite high pedal effort.

3) Build a 2000 engine and use the 2000 flywheel/clutch/bellhousing but add the
hydraulic underfloor pedal assembly from a 1968/9 car. Not so easy - you have
to first find someone to sell you the pedals, rig the master cylinder, drill
all the mounts to accept it - find somewhere to put the reservoir and plumb it
all....all do-able of course,results in really nice installation (hydraulic =
good) but non-trivial - and (not sure here) don't you have to change to dual
circuit brakes? 

I did it a 4th way that worked pretty well, but doesn't get talked about much.
That is..
4) Obtain an aluminum flywheel that is drilled for the 2000 crank but is sized
for the 1600 clutch - so it's actually an adapter from a 2000 engine to the
1600 clutch/flywheel/bellhousing. Sperry sells them, I bought mine from
Alfaholics - no doubt others make them. No mods to the pedals, master
cylinders, no need for the Centerline adapter, and has the original feel + you
get a lightened flywheel. A GTA-strength clutch can handle the power. You need
a 1600 starter and 1600 bellhousing/block spacer.

YMMV but works great on my car

-Richard, San Jose, CA
1967 GTV with 2000.
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