IHC/IHC Digest Archive

[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Even more info on my travelall



On Wed, 17 Dec 1997 12:53:11 -0700 (MST), Luke Nelson <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I get it right at 0 degrees on number 8, and then I remember "Doh, you
>need to pull off the vaccum advance to time" so I go to pull that off and
>WAM, it dies.  well atucally it chugged for like 3 seconds and died.  And
>I go to stry to start it again and it just won't stay started, it chugs,
>backfires, chugs and backfires and smells too. but wont stay started.  it
>is like by pulling off that vaccum adcance, it sets the timeing WAY off.

In the situation you just described, I'd try one of two things... leave the
vacuum advance disconnected and advancing the distributor (turning it
slightly counter-clockwise) then try restarting.  It could be that the
timing is so far retarded (with the vacuum advance disconnected) that it
will not run.  Be sure and plug the vacuum advance line when you
disconnected it.  OR... you could simply hook the vacuum advance back up,
start the engine, verify the timing, and if it does in fact read zero
degrees BTDC, try advancing it to say 10 degrees BTDC and *then* disconnect
the vacuum advance line (and plug it).  Then if the engine stays running,
adjust the timing to zero degrees BTDC like it's supposed to be.  If it
won't stay running at zero degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance
disconnected, then something is definitely wrong here.

>So... Am I timeing the travelall wrong?

Basically no, but if someone else set the timing at zero degrees BTDC
*with* an unported vacuum advance connected... then coupled with a few
other problems it might react the way you described.

>should I replace the points?  How
>do you replace points? should I replace the condenser also?

Luke,

Pardon my saying so, but you're asking some really basic maintenance
questions, so I'm going to assume you are pretty new at this.  I'd like to
make a friendly suggestion (offered in the spirit of help) that you
seriously consider buying a few good books on basic auto repair that will
really help you properly learn all this in the long run.  If you can afford
it, one of your first priorities should be to buy the IH Shop manual
reprint for your rig.  It covers everything from the basics to advanced
repair procedures and is a must for the serious do-it-yourselfer.  The IH
shop manual assumes some degree of mechanical and technical skill.  Because
of this, you may also wish to buy a Haynes or similar aftermarket repair
manual.  They assume less mechanical knowledge and cover basic auto repair
concepts better to help you get started.

To answer your questions though... anytime you have a mechanical problem,
you should always start with basic trouble shooting procedures.  Unless you
have a good level of repair experience and can diagnose the trouble
correctly in seconds (like Owen Minor in Tacoma), then it's usually
advisable to start with the basics.  In your case, you most definitely want
to eliminate the common causes of problems associated with engine problems.
For starters, yes you should replace (or test and clean) the points,
condenser, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, fuel
filter, air filter, PCV valve and ignition coil.  Any one (or combination)
of these could be contributing to your problem.  To be sure, yes you may
still have a carburetor problem, but that may only be one small item being
exaggerated by others.  If you can't remember when things like the points,
condenser and fuel filter were replaced... then it's been too long!  You
should check for vacuum leaks.  Check to see that the carburetor is bolted
down properly (again, eliminate vacuum leaks).  If you change the plugs,
warm the engine first and then do a compression test.  Most people put that
test off indefinitely because it's a little time consuming.  Buy a vacuum
gauge and test the vacuum.  Vacuum readings can help diagnose many
problems.  Again, *good* repair manuals will explain the procedures and
help you interpret the tests.  And as I and others have recommended, clean
and rebuild the carburetor.

>Should I go
>get a nice JATO unit and imbed it in the side of a Arizona cliff?

Now Luke... I for one feel sorry for your old Travelall... it's been
neglected and is sick.  It needs you more than ever now... and you're
talking about bullet holes and rocket motors!  You probably forgot the vow
you took when you bought it... something about "in sickness and in health"
and "until death do us part"???  Where's your morals man?  (BTW, that's a
Federally required oath for all Travelall purchasers)

Happy wrenching,

John

------------------------------------------------------------------------
[email protected]             |
Conservative Libertarian        |  Scout(R) the America others pass by
Life Member of the NRA          | in the Scout Traveler escape-machine.
WA Arms Collectors              |
Commercial Helicopter - Inst.   | 1976 Scout Traveler, V345A, 727, 3.54
http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/ |



Home | Archive | Main Index | Thread Index