Roof Rack power!, bushings, and oil pressure.

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

IH ALL!

I finally did it.  I took out the radio antenna from the right 
front fender of the T'all, and replaced is with a piece of 1/2" 
e-z Pull steel conduit.  It runs out of the antenna hole, to the 
drip rail, up the pillar, accross the rail to the roof rack clamp 
and up and away.  It looks great, and I had to fab some clips to 
hold it to the drip rail.  It is contoured to the body and 
doesn't hang up in the bushes.  Guards the power lines to the 
rack (4 in there) and has the CB/AM/FM antenna lead in it.  Makes 
the truck look like Back-To-The-Future with a pipe there.  Smooth 
and contoured, looks like factory.  Wish I had a digital camera.

-Joel
'76 Scout II 345/tf727
'75 T'all 150 4wd 392/tf727

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Jeremy,

     The spring eye bushings can be removed by drilling a series 
of
holes through the rubber around the spring eye.  If you drill a 
good number of large holes, you'll be able to 'tear' the rubber 
out with a large screwdriver.  The torch usually stinks things up 
real good, and does two bad things.  One) it may heat the spring 
enough to weaken the eye, and two if the rubber catches on fire, 
it'll stink REAL BAD, and it may be difficult to extinguish.  Use 
a large C-clamp and a 1.5" to 2" socket on the other side, and 
you've made a bushing press.  Good luck,

     -Joel
     '76 Scout II 345/tf727
     '75 T'all 150 4wd 392/tf727

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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 09:18:56 -0700
From: "Jeremy Jones" <jejones@domain.elided>
Subject: The cyclindrical rubber in the shackle/spring perch.

I beleive it is called the eye bushing, ANYWAY. It won't come 
out!! one hour later and a couple of bloody knuckles they have 
not even budged. Do I need to go get a torch and melt the damn 
things out?  What have you guys done to get those things out? I 
even tried just pounding on the metal sleeve insert and it would 
not move! (yes, I have been soaking them)

TIA

Jeremy Jones
A few scouts
A few travelers
An extraordinary collection of rust.

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Richard,

     You've GOT to tell us what those units are?  3700?  Are you 
sure you don't have a tach in there somehow?  Typical idle 
pressures are between 10 and 40 psi, and run pressures are 
between 40 and 80 psi at speed.  I hope this 3700 thing is 
kosher.  The other thing is to make sure the sender is still 
good.  The IH manual should tell you how to test this.  New 
senders are around $10 and usually make a world of difference in 
a system.  They are available is 80psi and 100psi depending on 
the gauge.  Also, note, that the pressure tap is usually some 
distance away from the pump on IH's.  On F@^d they are commonly 
mounted directly atop the filter casting.  The IHs tell you the 
pressure 'after' it's gone through the system, while the F@^d 
tell you 'before'.  The Before pressure is unimportant.  If the 
After pressure is low, you may still have pressure on the input 
side, and IH's usually have a nice way of clicking to let you 
know they're low on oil, or pressure.

     Hope it helps,

     -Joel
     '76 Scout II 345/tf727
     '75 T'all 150 4wd 392/tf727

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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 12:50:05 -0600
From: Richard Dyer <rldyer@domain.elided>
Subject: Oil Pressure

I have a 74 Scout II with an oil pressure problem.  I have a 345 
V-8.  When I start the vehicle (cold), the engine pressure goes 
to around 3700.  As soon as the engine starts warming the 
pressure drops. It soon drops to almost zero.  It will raise some 
as you accelerate the engine.  I am not running the engine until 
I get this fixed.

My oil guage is an aftermarket mechanical guage, and I believe it 
to be reading correctly.

I would like suggestions on ways to fix this.  Are there any 
common problems with this engine that might help me out?

Thanks.

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