brakes, Roof racks, t/case vibes...

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

Dan,

     The key is to use th Ford pads.  They have the anti-squeal 
backing plates and are usually 3 or 4 dollars cheaper per pair 
than the IH pads.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 18:34:58 -0500
From: cookiedan@domain.elided (Daniel Nees)
Subject: bunch of stuff
<snip>

  <snip> Will the pads for the Scout
calipers fit the fords? Should right? 

        Dan Nees
cookiedan@domain.elided
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Nick,

     Of the 4 scout II tops that I have had, the holes for the 
factory 'luggage rack' have been in a variance of +/- 1", so 
basically if it fits, and you like it, go ahead.  It is centered 
right and left, the variance is fore/aft. There are no supports 
in the rooftop made for the screws of the rack, simply two #10 
sheet metal screws at every mounting.  Make sure to run a small 
bead of silicone around the holes when you put it on, to seal and 
prevent rust.  Also a piece of inner tube cut to the shape of the 
base will help seal, and prevent ALOT of noise.  I actually moved 
my rack on my original scoutII top (5 years ago?) about 1/2" 
forward because the holes had begun to rust out.  The brackets 
covered the old holes also, so to look at it you'd never know I 
had moved it!

Good luck,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 01:05:36 GMT
From: nickl@domain.elided (Nick Leiterman)
Subject: Scout II roof rack

I found a factory roof rack for a Scout II, I think it came from a 72.
I want to put it on my 79.  Can anyone tell me where to locate it on
the top?  are there supports in the roof that the screws need to hit?
how long should the screws be?=20
any help is appreciated.

Nick Leiterman
Kent, Washington
nickl@domain.elided

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DurangoMan,

     In spite of all the flak this has generated, I hope you get 
your problem resolved.  The slop in a U-joint should be 0.  No 
1/16", no 1mm, 0!  If it rattles, put another one in!  It is the 
single cheapest driveline component and the largest contributor 
to drivline failures!  The slip joint should also not rattle at 
all!  On my Chev,the front was so bad that with the shaft out, I 
could make the yoke swing a circle while holding the rest of the 
shaft.  Don't let this happen.  The new slip joint (both sides) 
would have been $165,then labor, and joints, etc.  I got it all 
for $93.  Catch some of the oil running out of the t/case and 
diffs, and look at it under a bright light.  Does it have a 
metallic look to it?  Do you see waves of metallic pieces in it, 
like swirly/frosty nail-polish?  If so, change the fluid.

Let us know,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 19:04:10 -0700 (MST)
From: DurangoMan <sbaird@domain.elided>
Subject: T-case noise, Part II

 Thanks to all who answered my first T-case question.  I rattled
the holy living hell out of the front driveshaft; the slip yolk had a tiny
bit a lateral play (no torsional play, tho), and the u-joint behind the
front dif had a small amount as well.  Both were on the order of 1-2 mm.
Is this enough play to cause nasty noises?  I checked the fluid level, and
it looked good (it started to run out as soon as I pulled the check plug),
and all the mounting bolts are good and tight.  The t-case was
(supposedly) rebuilt about a year and 9k miles ago.

    DurangoMan

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