Ken's questions...

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

Ken,

     I'll do the best I can.  here goes:

1.  You don't lock the back hatch, which is really just a velcro or snapped shut
sheet.  The guy I traded the manifold to gave me his steel top because he put on
a Kayline.  Looks good, but not good for security.

2:  Treating the insides of the doors.  I cleaned out the rust and patched the 
holes.  Then take a piece of large cell pipe insulation made for 1/2" or 3/4" 
pipe (about 2" O.D.), and silicone it to the bottom of the door, but only with 
small 'dots' of silicone.  This will keep the drain holes in the bottom of the 
door from getting road spray in there,rusting the window regs, and keep your 
speakers (if you have 6x9s in the door) from getting wet.  The dots will still 
let the doors drain, like when it rains, or you swamp it, read: wash it.

3.  If you get the Kayline, you don't want anything on the top of the bed rails,
as the Kayline mounts there.  The 'snap-fast?' or whatever it's called has a 
long strip that mounts over the bed rail, so get the top, THEN figure out what 
you want to do with the bed rails.  There are two different Kayline tops, the 
regular and the 'snap-fast' or whatever.  The fast one has a sliding rail on the
edge of the cloth that hooks in a groove instead of the snaps.

4.  I reconstructed my own mounts, and the steel I used is way thick, they'll be
there even if the body isn't.  I wasn't worried about the rust proofing.

5. Dunno about the underside, the tar/oil leak POUR system seems to be working 
ok for me, 8 years running.

6.  Try to weld the lips back together as they are prone to further damage if 
not held together.  The flares cover it up well, but, make sure to wash out the 
problem areas.  Salt and rust collect in the worst places.  Drill drains and put
plugs under the panels between the door and the wheel wells.

7. Rhino-Lining is a permanent modification and can NEVER be removed.  In fact, 
when I had the inside of my Chevy Suburban Carryall done, I had to sign a 
waiver, that I wouldn't wig that is was permanent.  Also since it is resistant 
to almost everything known to man (poly-urethane) it is hard to remove with a 
solvent.  They still don't talk about removing it over there at Rhino.

Hope this helps,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 15:06 -0700 (MST)
From: Ken Farmer <Ken.Farmer@domain.elided>
Subject: Soft Top

I'm getting ready to do a bunch of urban stuff to my scout:

    1.  Minor rust repairs to rear floor and inner wheel well
    3.  Install Roll bars       ($150 for 1-piece from GUS)
    2.  Rhino line the interior ($499 interior including prep work)
    4.  Install Kayline softtop ($420 at GUS)


Here's a few questions:

    1.  How do you lock the back hatch with the kayline softtop?
    2.  Any recommendations for how to treat the insides of the doors?
    3.  I noticed that a month or so back a few folks were talking
        about using filtered line-x (?) on the top of the bed rails
        to make it thin.  Why bother?  Is this for asthetics?
    4.  I'll be replacing my body mounts with some barely used urethane
        ones that I picked up for $20.  Since the body mount bracket
        is a big rust prone area, any thoughts on the value of coating
        it with something like durabak?
    5.  Any suggestions on an undercoating beneath the new floor that
        I will install?  The Rhino-guys didn't want to do it since
        they don't have high-lifts in their shop.  I'd rather do something
        less expensive anyway...
    6.  Looking at the insides of the wheel wells it seems like the
        biggest rust spot must be the wheel well lip.  I'd like to
        somehow just coat both sides of the lip (with durabak?), or
        perhaps install the plastic fender flares.  Any thoughts on
        which would be the most successful at preventing rust?  The
        flares (I think made by Bushwacker) are expensive at something
        like $300 for the entire vehicle.
    7.  Tom - a couple of months back or so you asked folks if this
        Rhino-lining or durabak or whatever can be removed (or if not,
        what do you do should you need to do more rust surgery).  Did
        you come up with any good answers?

Thanks!

Ken Farmer
1980 Scout II 
1974 Travelall 

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