Fuel lines, ACC key positions

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

     Jeff, Epp,

          I'm pretty sure that since the late 60s DOT required that fuel lines 
be made of steel so that in an impact, the line would not be cut or chafed by 
body metal.  I don't really understand this personally, it would seem that a 
nice thick piece of double wall fuel line from the chain stores ought to 
suffice.  I buy 5/16 ID fuel line and the hose clamp connectors and never have a
problem.  If it is a Scout, don't the vapor lines run up to the top of the 
filler neck and end there?  I can't remember seeing a vapor recovery can, I'll 
look tonight.  Whenever I fill the scout up, the breather pipe that enters the 
filler neck from the right (rear) side of the neck, burbles fuel, and vapors up 
while filling the tank.  I know the line from the pump to the carb is required 
to be steel with the exception of a few inches of rubber to connect a fuel 
filter in between.  The engine heat will destroy a length of rubber fuel hose 
under the hood, plus who wants to worry if it's too close to the manifolds.  The
steel lines are available from the chain stores and usually come with one side 
flared and a compression fitting.  These can be easily bent with your hands, and
I redid the piping on my friends '64 Scout80 this way.  The rubber/neoprene fuel
hose can easily be attached to the steel with hose clamps.  The pipe cuts easily
with a tubing cutter and you're off and running.

     I hope this made any sense to anyone other than me.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 2 Mar 98 12:27:56 EST
From: jeff tarquinio <tarquinio_jeff@domain.elided>
Subject: Epps fuel tank

Epp said:
 "I know that a rubber fuel line is used from the fuel sender to a
line.  But what is that line?  Is it rubber?  Plastic?  Aluminum?
Steel?  I don't know what the previous owner did, but it looks like I am
supposed to hook up the rubber line to a Plastic? line that runs rear to
front."

Epp,
 On my Terra, from the sender was a short length of rubber hose to a 
plastic hose that said "air line" on it (I assumed it was for air brakes on 
so equipped vehicles) then back to rubber and into the fuel pump.  I don't 
know if this is the stock/factory configuration, but it worked.  I have 
since installed a 22 gal RCI fuel cell with 8 AN braided fuel line up to 
the fuel pump, and plan to add a second 16 gal cell for increased capacity.
Hope that helps

Tark 
'77 Terra 345/T19/D20 

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Dan,

     Since I got my Travelall, I thought the ACC position was toast.  I jiggled 
everything and one night, I appeased the gods, a light shone down, and presto, 
it went into the ACC.  Anyway, it seems that as the keys wear down from the 
cycles of forward start run, that the ACC position is increasingly difficult to 
achieve.  Try holding the key with one hand, and turning the ign with the other.
I jiggle the key a bit and it works more often now.  Maybe it's wearing in?  I'm
hoping to dig in there (when every other thing in the world works) and re-key 
the ign to the original.  Is there a way to get the key codes from the Lineset? 
Didn't think so.

     Hope it helps,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 02 Mar 1998 10:19:00 PST
From: "Dan Nees" <cookiedan@domain.elided>
Subject: steering columns

Hey gang,
   I have been thinking. My Acc. position on my key switch has not 
worked since I bought the truck. Is this common? Has any one tried to 
fix this? How? I need to tear down the column any way to fix the horn 
and the turn signal shut off. Any suggestions would be nice.
                Dan Nees
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