[alfa] RE: Replacement of front crankshaft seal - spider

[<alfaguy@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Biba and all -

I left out the hooked seal puller tool for a reason. I have one in my
arsenal of tools and have used it many times. But, I have learned on certain
applications that inserting the tool between the seal and the shaft that the
seal rides against, can damage or scratch the shaft. Yes, I'm ashamed to
admit that I learned this the hard way.

It may not be an issue on a spider crankshaft which is hardened, but better
to be safe.

Use whichever method works for you and you are comfortable with.

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: alfacybersite [mailto:acs@domain.elided]
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 3:01 PM
To: AD; Jeff Greenfield
Subject: Replacement of front crankshaft seal - spider

As usual, Jeff Greenfield's comments / instructions regarding the above
subject are very good.

I'm going to make a couple of suggestions regarding his suggestions.
While the idea of drilling small holes in the seal's edge, installing a
sheet metal screw and pulling out seal with vice grips is quite
clever...I hate to take the chance of getting any chips, no matter how
small, inside the engine. Apparently more years ago than I thought (it's
made in the USA - imagine!) bought an inexpensive tool at Pep Boys. The
end has two partial half moon shaped 'hooks' on the end which make Very
short work of pulling seals. True, the seal is destroyed in the process,
but you weren't going to use it again...were you?

Seals: Not proud to admit it, but don't believe I've ever managed to
install a seal with squishy stuff on the outside - perfectly. Some of
the squish material always comes off which means it now will not only
leak past the seal sooner rather than later, it will also leak past the
outside of the seal. Other than using a pipe of the correct diameter,
are there any tricks I'm missing? Freeze the seal to shrink before
installing? Use silicone grease? In the meantime for the front I use
'incorrect' seals which admittedly aren't designed for a specific
rotation, nor do they look anywhere near as 'sturdy' as the used Goetze
I have in front of me (827 SROW / 35-50-10).  Apparently I was
installing it at one time and as usual the squishy stuff began peeling
off. All indications are that it was going in absolutely straight, but
there is one small area where the serrated outside edge has torn off.
The ones I have been using have a metal jacket with a very light
flexible coating on the outside edge. They go in nice and clean but
still eventually leak around the seal. These are made by Chicago Rawhide
(13944 / 35-50-8) and you can see they are 2 mm narrower than the
'correct' Goetze.

Pulley nut: I use neither the lock tab (sometimes they're recyclable)
nor Loctite. Since the torque is around 140 ft. pds. The problem is
inevitably how to get it off, Not to  have to walk back a half mile to
pick it up when it falls off. I'll include my usual disclaimer: If
racing and / or revving an engine up to or over 7500, by all means use
Loctite. Even an engine which is just a smidge out of balance will start
vibrating at those revs. I've asked this question about wheel's falling
off for lack of torque and received a bunch of replies which almost
always came down to something dumb - like forgetting to torque them at
all or torquing them so much the studs broke off. Has anyone who does
not rev their (2000) engine past 6500 and torques to the proper specs
ever have their front pulley loosen up even a smidgen, let alone fall
off? If it fell off along with the front of the crank, I feel it is safe
to say you over tightened the 'nut' a wee bit too much.

Regarding the latter comments: I've just pulled an engine / transmission
/ driveshaft. Had to cut off a handful of items to get it pulled. I
absolutely hate doing this but all of the cutting necessary was because
of the last mechanic over torquing some of the items. Items: One bolt /
nut from driveshaft to diff; one bolt / nut from exhaust manifold to
exhaust; tach cable; clutch flex line + others. Regarding the latter,
I'm apparently going to have to make a new bracket and hardline for the
clutch reservoir to flex line joint. Won't budge and bracket is almost
ready to fall off from trying to separate flex line from hardline. I'm
game for suggestions.

Biba
Who, if you haven't figured it out by now - hates people who over torque
Alfa parts which have no desire to fall off in the first place and is
not looking forward to removing the steering wheel from this particular
car.
Irwindale, CA USA
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