[alfa] RE: V6 Spark Breakup - Solved! (Long)

["Les Singh" <Les.Singh@xxxxxxxxx>]

Bert Neily asked:

In consideration of all that, my question is this - just what in the
hell are the CORRECT OFFICIAL resistances for these various components
(or the total correct resistance measured from the inside of the
distributor cap to the center electrode of the plug)?  The values vary
all over the map - all with supposedly correct parts.  The car is
presently running fine with the separated 2.4 kOhm copper-core wires,
the 1.1 kOhm rotor, and the zero resistance NGK plugs.  Now I wonder how
long it will be before the system melts down.  If the total resistance
really matters (it seems that it should), then I'm surprised that the
various parts vendors and the Alfa shop manuals are not more explicit
regarding all of this.

Bert

I run zero resistance wires on my GTV. They are Accel copper core with
silicone/fibreglass sheath  and silicone cover(outer). They have been in
the car for yonks and I they are great. Its just about impossible to get
similar wires because of the radio interference regulations so various
wires of various resistances (as you found out!) are fitted to cars. On
our race car we use Taylor Spiro-Pro wires - horrendously expensive here
(about $130 for 4 + coil wire) - and they are great. I tried swapping
another make of wire (brand new) in the #1 position and found that the
car misfired.

Those wires that caused the misfiring in you car - send them back!

My feeling is that you should try to get 0 resistance if possible, which
theoretically should allow you to use a bigger spark plug gap and a
"fatter" spark. At least this theory works for me with the GTV. The
electronics riddled Milano/75 is a lost cause so I don't play with it.
It starts slowly, runs erratically and is a pain in the butt to do
anything with.

Les Singh in Wellington, NZ
105 GTV Forever!
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