727 removal, u-j phasing.

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

First, I want to apologize for my last reply to Jerry.  I believe 
it may have been in haste, and if any offense was taken I 
apologize.
That being said,

Jerry, Mark,

     The 727 in my T'all is divorced so I'm not sure the: 
'separate the t/case from the trans', and the 'sling around the 
t-case' applies.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 22:13:57 EST
From: IHMagellan@domain.elided
Subject: Re: T/C and 727 removal

If you've got access to an engine crane, there's an easy way to remove the
transfer case first.  Pull the cover from the transmission tunnel.  Put the
boom of the engine hoist in through the passenger's door.  Then make a rope
sling around the the transfer case and hook it to the crane.  Now you can
separate the transfer case from the transmission and lower it to the floor.
Then unhook the hoist and slide the transfer case out from under the truck.  I
haven't tried this for the transmission and transfer case together, but I
suspect that balance would be a problem.

Jerry Muncie

In a message dated 98-02-10 21:57:16 EST, you write:

<< Tom,
 Having just pulled my T/C and tranny I would say drain the T/C.  When
 you go to separate the the two, it can get messy with fluid draining out
 of the T/C.
 
 Joel,
 In removing the 727, I put the front wheels on ramps (facing forward)
 and dropped the T/C, tranny, and crossmember as one unit.  With a bottle
 jack and a 2x4 under the oil pan, I just lowered the tranny down.  With
 the Scout on ramps, the tranny just slid out the side, right behind the
 spring mount.  I know that the T-all will be different in terms of the
 T/C, but dropping the crossmember made it a lot easier (dropping
 straight down).
 
 Mark
 '75 345, 727 (still waiting to put the tranny back in) >>

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     The lines from the centers of the U-joint caps should not be 
parallel, nor should they be parallel with the shaft centerline.  
If they are, you need to pull the slip joint out/off the long end 
of the shaft, and rotate it 90 deg.  I can't remember if the 
front shaft on the scout actually has a slip joint.  I think not 
being so short, but then again, I can't remember if the front 
shaft is in phase or 90out of phase, which may have lead to all 
this confusion in the beginning.

     The phase is the angle that the line between the centers of 
the u-joint caps on one end, make with the line between the 
centers on the opposite end of the shaft.  If you imagine these 
lines (between the centers of the joint on one side) the lines 
should look like a cross-hairs when you look down the end of the 
shaft.  ie.: if the shaft is laying on the ground, while one loop 
of one yoke is touching the ground, the other loop on that side 
should be up, while the loops on the opposite end should be on 
the sides.

     This is where the internet bogs down, without web based 
mailing lists.  This wuold be alot easier with a picture.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.


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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 19:50:16 +0000
From: zee <zee@domain.elided>
Subject: Re U-joint phasing

> I wish I had a piece of paper to show this.  If the joints 
>are set a 0deg. phase the drive shaft will actually act most like 
>a jump rope, all the mass revolves around a center line.  Where 
>if the joints are 90 deg phased, then the shaft acts like it's 
>suspended at it's center and the ends make circles, like two 
>cones connected at their vertices.

I could use some help understanding the driveline phasing. Is it simply
setting the driveshaft up correctly or do I need specialized tools? 
What is the correct setting for the shaft?



Bryan

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