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Batteries, and little probs (Nick Cuskey)



Howard,

     I seem to remember some talk, on a TV show about ancient 
Egypt, that about 6000 years ago, Egyptians knew how to 
electroplate making batteries with vinegar, and wine, and some 
other stuff like salt water, etc.  My guess is that if the 
technology has been around for that long, not much is gonna 
happen is 25yrs.  Have batteries changed all that much since say, 
1960?  The lead acid cell seems like there isn't much room for 
improvement.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 22:39:56 EST
From: [email protected] (Howard R Pletcher)
Subject: Re: Batteries...

On Wed, 18 Feb 1998 19:23:41 -0700 (MST) Luke Nelson <[email protected]>
writes:
>When my travelall needed a battery they listed something like 400 CCAs
as
>being stock, but we took a 1000CCA battery out to the beast and saw it
>would fit just fine t is what I have got.  And it really is a great
>battery, it always turns over and has plenty of power :)
>
I'm not an expert on batteries, but isn't what we're seeing a result of
30 years of advancement in battery technology?  Now they can pack 1000
CCA into the same package size that only permitted 400 CCA back in 1970. 
This reserve lets us start at 0 degrees with a 5 year old battery when in
the old days you had to replace it after about 3 years to be able to
start when the temperature got cold.

Howard Pletcher
Howteron Products Scout Parts
------------------------------


Nick,

I seem to have eliminated most of the probs you describe.

Here Goes:

The squeaking sound could be:  Bad alt bearings/bushings, loose alt belt, bad ac
clutch bearings, bad water pump bearing.

Take a piece of test hose (~3 ft.) and put it on the check valve on the brake 
booster.  With a vacuum pump (or your mouth) suck as much air as you can out of 
the booster, and while keeping the hose in your mouth, put your tongue over the 
end of the hose.  If it holds vacuum in the pipe, then the check valve is ok, if
it doesn't hold vac, suspect bad check valve.  If it holds vac, then try the 
brakes, if ok, the the problem is vacuum supply from the carb/manifold.  If no 
brakes suspect bad booster.  Listen for hissing carefully on a quiet night 
(~3am)  Seems like that's the only quiet time anymore.  I can actually seal old 
leaky boosters with a healthy application of silicone around the joint in the 
case, apply vacuum and the silicone fills the leaky spot.  Did this on my T'all 
just a few months ago, brake are WAY better, and no hissing.  If the problem is 
the supply, with the same length of test hose, have someone start the engine, 
while your test hose is connected to the carb and place a moistened finger over 
the end of the hose.  If you have vacuum, then the supply fine, suspect bad 
hose, or joints.

Back gate on a Traveler, I have no clue, I have always had tailgates.

Passenger door, check door alignment just before the latch hits the striker.
Adjust accordingly.  Adjust striker if needed.  To adjust the door, remove 
internal panels and there are three bolts top, and bottom to adjust the hinges. 
Do these adjustments with a friend holding up the door, or with a floor jack 
under it, or else it will slip and aim toward the ground.

Driver's door handle.  Phillips screw in the handle while the handle is pulled 
to the -open- position.  If still loose suspecct bad handle latch pivot.  These 
are available from any scout yard,shouldn't be more than $10.

Window crank, if the crank arm is loose, remove allen screw, ~5/32, clean 
threads, replace screw, tighten.  If the knob is loose, pick an appropriate 
sized 1/4 drv socket for the rivet side.  Pick a flat piece of steel for the 
knob side (about 2" x 2" should work OK).  Place the socket on the rivet, the 
steel over the knob and squeeze with a vice.  It helps if you put a tad of 90wt 
oil under the knob and river to keep them working smoothly.  Squeeze the system 
to your specs, making sure not to join them too tightly.  Lasts for about 5 
years this way.

     I hope these help your dilemma.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 22:40:43 +0000
From: Nick Cuskey <[email protected]>
Subject: General maintainance assistance, please

Hi all,

I just got my first scout, and I'm so happy.  It is a '77 traveler, but
it has some problems.  

Under the hood, there is this really strange squeeking sound.  I put
some fan belt lube on, but that didn't help.  It is coming from the
front, on the passenger side.  Right in that corner.  A/C bearings?  The
brakes are a little tricky.  You have to really lay into them.  Almost
like they are manual, not power, but the vaccuum drum is there.  The
heater works, sometimes.  It starts out strong, but then fades off until
it stops with this weird charcoal smell.  The back gate is a pain in the
ass to lock, the passengers door takes a good slam to close, the door
handle on the inside drivers side door is loose, along with the crank
for the window.  Other than that, she's a real nice rig.  

Does anyone have any quick fixes, tips, help, or anything for these
problems?

Good to be in the club,

Nick
'77 traveler, 345, 727 3-speed, dual exhaust, glass packs, the works

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